Friday, December 31, 2010

The Apron - Day 1

I pulled out my white 5 oz weight linen tonight so I could start the cutting for my new apron. Since I will be smocking the top edge of the apron I needed it to be 50-66% wider then I intend the finished piece to be. As I want the finished top to be about 20 inches wide, I chose a starting width of 60 inches. The pleating will gather the beginning width into the much smaller finished width. For the waist to floor length I opted to use a known period loom width of about 32 inches.

To insure that I was cutting straight with the grain, I hand basted a black waste thread along one of the weft threads. I then cut the length I needed a half inch from the basting line.


That is all I got done for tonight... Tomorrow the basting stitches for the smocking.

Tuesday, December 28, 2010

A Pleated & Smocked Apron - The Plan

So, now that the holidays are over I am going to start working on my new garb.  The first project will be something small and hopefully quickly finished... an apron.

Aprons were very popular as they helped keep ones hard to clean clothes from getting soiled.  I personally like the look of smocked aprons and that is what I plan on making.  Below you can see a few of the paintings of which I am drawing my inspiration from.

The first three show the use of pleated aprons. In the Seated Woman by Durer you can see how the pleats have been drawn up tight at the top of the apron and then are allowed to hang down and become full.  I don't see any top stitching on the pleats in this image so the basting threads may have been left in to hold the pleats in place.

Seated Woman, Albrecht Durer, 1514

Presumed Portrait of the Artist's Wife, Hans Holbein the Younger, 1517.

Portrait of a Woman, Albrecht Altdorfer,  1522.
(Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, Madrid)

In Albrecht Durer's Melencolia I, you can clearly see a pattern at the top of the apron that could easily be honeycombed smocking.

Melencolia I , Albrecht Durer, 1514.

And again, below you can see what apears to be honeycomb at the top of the apron and maybe a simple line of embriodery or cutwork at the bottom too.

The Seamstress, Edward Schoen, 1535.

If I have time I would like to add some embroidery to the bottom of the apron as well.  Maybe some blackwork similar to what appears in this painting:

Unknown.

Well before my persona's life time there are many examples of pleated and/or smocked aprons.  Most notably, images found in the Luttrell Psalter from the 14th century.  Black embroidery of some kind is clearly seen at the tops of these gathered aprons.




And finally, about 60-70 years after my target time period, you can find many images of pleated, smocked and otherwise embroidered aprons in the Frauen-Trachten by Jost Amman published in 1586. The ones of greatest interest to me are among the images of the women of Frankfurt am Main, Germany the home of my persona, Elsbeth.

Saturday, December 25, 2010

My new Inkle Loom!

My wonderful husband got me a Schacht Inkle Loom for Christmas this year! 

By Christmas afternoon I had created my heddles using crochet cotton, warped the loom with some found grey and pink wool/cotton blend yarns from my stash and had over eight inches of weaving done!  It is so much fun.  I quickly discovered I had an error in my warping which showed in the finished weave but as this is just a practice weave which will be a non-SCA belt for six year old "M" I opted to leave it as it was instead of rewarping the whole project.

Although this design of loom does not fall within the time period of the SCA the resulting Inkle, the woven belt or trim it creates, is documentable to the SCA time frame.  I have several projects I would like to use inkle weaving in:
  1. Stocking garters
  2. Woven Belt
  3. possibly trim for my new hemd

Saturday, December 18, 2010

The plan for new garb for me!

Now that the rush to make garb for the three kiddos is over I am excited to get on with the plans for a whole new set of garb for me!  My SCA Persona, Elsebeth, was born in Frankfurt, German in 1465.  My goal is to create period garb that falls between the years of 1485 to 1520 when I would have been an adult between 20-55 years old.  To that end, I want my first dress to be an everyday working dress similar to that seen in the images below:

Portrait of a Man and His Wife by Ulrich Apt the Elder, 1512.

Anna Barth? from the Lamberger Portrait Book, 1575-ish.
(Is fancier then I want and from a later period but nice to see the style didn't change much.)

Portrait of 34 year old women by Hans Holbien, 1517.

Portrait of Coloman Helmschmid and Agnes Breu by Jorg Breu the Elder, 1500-1505.

Portrait of a women by Wolf Traut, 1510.

To Do List:
1. Kleid (dress)
2. Hemd (smock)
3. Wulsthaube (headwear)
4. Goller (shoulder wrap/cape)
5. Apron
6. Hose (stockings)
7. Shoes (and maybe Pattens too)
8. Jewelry
9. Belt
10. Pouch

It is a long, somewhat overwhelming list!  I will take on one thing at a time but most likely not in the order listed above.  Many of the items I don't have at all and if added onto my current not period correct dress and chemise I will at least "look" more period-ly correct so I may work on those first just in case the dress doesn't get finished by the next event, Ymir, in February.

Tuesday, December 14, 2010

Learning Kumihimo

Tonight was our bi-monthly SCA Canton meeting.  I think the cold weather and closeness to the holidays kept most folks at home as it was just our family and two others that attended the meeting.

I was looking forward to the topic tonight, Kumihimo cord weaving.  I had seen several women making them while at Winter Solstice last week and was curious to learn more about it.  Kumihimo is an ancient Japanese form of braid-making.

Tessa had brought a few CDs that she had cut slots around the edges to hold the strings.  She taught us a basic 2 color, 8 string weaving pattern.  It turns out that the two colors of crochet weight string were not of the same size which made for an interesting pattern on mine.  It was lots of fun to learn and I look forward to finishing my cord.  It will most likely by used as a pouch drawstring someday.

Saturday, December 4, 2010

Winter Solstice

What a wonderful fun event Winter Solstice turned out to be! Good food, music, dancing, games and new friends.

There were some minor garb issues... A gusset seam split on baby T's dress, E's pants lost it's drawstring so he had to wear his mundane jeans for half the day and I just didn't get anything new made for me... still, a good day and I was pleased the kids had such a good time.


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